SKU: 699010
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          • MXCHAMP Digital Wheel Truing Stand is the tool to choose for personal or daily shop use balancing a motorcycle wheel . With functions and features needed to truing dirt bike or street bike wheels, this stand is an exceptional value and makes wheel maintenance never so easy

          • Professional grade motorcycle wheel truing stand. helps you to reach out Japanese dirt bike spoke wheel balancing standard(up & down 1.2mm, side by side 0.8mm), With digital screen shows up, it's more precision and easy to figure out the wobbing side by side and hop up and down than other competitor's "guesswork" steel truing stand

          •  Aluminum construction features lighter and portable, adjustable rails for differing wheel widths and works on all motorcycle wheel sizes up to 16"-21", axel 20mm-30mm.(option from 14"-21"/16-30mm),Stand base features adjustable big rubber feet

          • Flexible and adjustable digital gauge bracket allows you to touch and measure the different  measurement points and shows up digital number for critical wheel balancing standard when you tension the nipples with spoke wrench

          • Two digital gauges, 2 flexible brackets, 1 inter-hex wrench 

          • Digital gauges without button batteries(LR44) inside as the airline regulation restriction

          • Need to DIY to assemble the frame base and brackets

          • Ship from local USA warehouse  by UPS Ground, FedEX Ground or USPS to delivery customer 3-5 days

          • Click here to download manual 

          How to Truing Dirt Bike Wheel

          • There are some reasons why you want to know how to lace up and truing dirt bike wheel. Maybe you're restoring an old dirt bike or fixing damage to your bike after a brutal ride. Maybe you're building a custom-tailed wheels and wish to update rim size and hub combo that's not available. Whatever the reason, here are the steps you need to understand. While there are some various lacing patterns and dirt bike hub types, those principles be the same with all of them.

          Tools Needed

          • You will certainly require a 1. mxchamp digital wheel truing stand, 2. a suitably sized mxchamp spoke wrench, 3. torque spoke wrench 4. a  digital caliper, 5. ruler  6. a workbench with an old blanket to work on. 7. a set of  wire-cutters or an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel helps disassemble the wheel swiftly if you are replacing the spokes.


          • When looking at your wheels, you'll see there are two sorts of spokes. Inner and outer. On wheels that have anisomerous hubs, there are two  short and longer versions of inside and outside. Before getting to lace up, we suggest taking picture of the wheel or, if you're starting from scratch, find some images of the wheel online. This will assist you know which direction each sort of spokes goes as you start to lace up


          • An additional essential step is to measure the offset. Occasionally rims are not centered on the hub, so you will certainly need to take a couple of measurements. 
          • Take a long straightedge and  lay it across the brake disc flange, hub edge or sprocket flange and gauge the distance in between it and edge of the rim.
          • Inspect the dimension at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock to figure out any type of bends in the rim.
          • Select the "most popular" measurement and write down.
          • Having a manufacture service manual truly assists because the offset is listed  normally . If you're build a customer-tailored wheel, you might need to do some mathematics to identify the rim to hub offset needed for your dirt bike.

          Wheel Disassembly

          • If you are replacing the dirt bike spokes and nipples, you can save much times by cutting the worn-out spokes. Recommend you to use hydraulic wire cutters. Put on safety glass because that the spokes can bounce out of wheel, although leaving the rubber rim strip on while doing this keeps this from occurring. If you are simply changing the rim and reusing your original spokes and nipples, you can just take out the nipple and leave the spokes in the hub. This will keep you from doing additional job.

          Prepping the Hub

          • Prepare the hub prior to starting mount spokes into it. Currently is the good time for painting, powder coating or polishing. It is right time to think changing the wheel bearings and seals.
          • It is simple to tell the difference between "inner" and "outer" spokes by taking note of length. Shorter spokes generally go inside the hub flange. Longer generally go outside the hub flange.
          • Separate your "outer" and "inner" spokes into 2 stacks. If your hub has a large side and small side, be sure to separate the spokes right into 4 stacks-long insides and outsides, and short insides and outsides.
          • Place some anti-seize liquid (WD-40)on the threads of each spoke. This ensures that you will certainly obtain torque sensation in your spoke wrench when you tighten up the wheel. It will also permit you to quickly true or re-tension the wheel in the future if needed.
          • Load the prior "inner" spokes into the hub . reference your service handbook or photos you took before dismantling the wheel. If you are restoring a stock wheel, simply search photos of the bike online for reference.
          • Angle the spokes in the proper direction, clockwise or counterclockwise, using your recommendations. Put the rim around the hub and spokes. Use old carpet to work on so absolutely nothing gets scratched as you move it all over. Currently when you take a look at the holes in the rim, it will be extremely obvious which spokes go in which holes. If you're having trouble, poke a nipple with the rim make note of which way it's pointing, this will certainly reveal you which spoke with start with. If you're restoring a wheel with an asymmetrical hub, it is necessary to take note of the rim-to-hub positioning.   
          • As soon as you obtain the 1st spoke nipple threaded through the rim, repeat through every 3 hole in the rim. Simply work on one side at once-inside right-side spokes into every 3 hole in the right side of the rim, then inside left-side spokes into every 3 opening in the left side of the rim. You will only need to rotate the nipple onto the spokes a few turns. Don't tighten them up way too much because that will make it difficult to finish lace up the wheel. You will certainly tighten the nipple all up together at the end of lace up.  
          • Next step, you'll put the 1st row of "outer" spokes into one side of the hub. We proposal lacing them one at time to avoid scraping the rim. You will certainly be able to poke a spoke through the hub flange from the within, going outward and after that, using your referrals, turn the nipple onto it via the suitable hole in the hub.
          • Repeat for each 3rd  hole on the same side of the rim until the spokes are all in place in one side of the wheel.Then accomplish by lacing the remaining "outer" spokes into the opposite side of the wheel.
          • Now your wheel will certainly be completely "loose laced." You need to attention the hub and rim are extremely relaxed and all the spokes nipples ought to be sticking with the rim equally. If you find that there is a lot of stress on one "type" of spokes and none on others, you might have to support and restart, paying close attention to your reference. Keep in mind of the number of times one spoke crosses an another spoke. On wheels with balanced hubs, spokes will normally go across 2 other spokes. 
          • Now you will certainly put the laced up wheel right into your mxchamp digital wheel truing stand. Make sure your stand's cones are up against the internal bearing race and not the rubber dust seals.
          • Using the digital indicator pointer on your truing stand, examine the wheel for side-to-side wobble and up-and-down hop. If the rim is too far to the right, by hand, loosen the spokes on the right and the spoke on the left of that specially area. Usually just two spokes on each side of the wheel will certainly work. For areas that hop and up and down, the same concept applies. If the rim is too low, tighten the nipple areas equal on both sides of the wheel to draw that location close to the hub. This will likewise consist of tighten four or more nipples. If it is too high, loosen up the nipples in that section. The straighter you can obtain the wheel by hand in advance, the less complicated tensioning it will certainly in the following step.


           Tensioning and Offset

          •  Tensioning is primarily getting the wheel back to that tight-as-a-dirt bike manufacture specification. The method is to tighten up the nipple equal completely around, frequently examine for wobble and hop on every lap around the wheel, utilizing the valve stem hole as a start point. This can certainly bore but this is where you are creating strength into your wheel. Usually tighten up the nipples simply a quarter turn each time per lap around the wheel up until it's tight. Your bike manual may list the torque setting your nipple must be at, which of course needs a torque spoke wrench. This is likewise the time you should be inspecting the offset

          Last Steps

          • When bringing the wheel to last stress. The best practice is to go "by feeling" with a standard spoke wrench, paying close attention to maintaining the rim straight and hop-free. You may intend to tap on the spokes of the various other wheel on your bike, or even a friend's bike to hear the correct pitch of an effectively tensioned wheel. On a loose wheel, the spokes will certainly generate a reduced as well as dull tone.
          • A correctly tensioned wheel will have a wonderful "ping" to them. If you have  torque spoke wrench, set up torque specs. 3.5-4.0 N.m(35-40 lbs.inch) to turn round every nipples till you heard  "click" sound . A wheel that is overtightened can possibly fracture the hub or start to pull the nipple areas via the rim.
          • Make sure to erode any type of spokes that might be poking through the nipple area given that the inner tube would or else be pierced by it.  Put on a brand-new rim strip, tire and tube and  appreciate your new wheel!


          Tensioning Bonus Tips

          • Take into consideration the size and weight of the bike. Big powerful effective motorbikes like Harley bikes or cruisers generally have wheels with fatter spokes that are really tight. Smaller, older bikes that are lighter and also have less powerful engines usually will have wheels with thinner spokes and smaller nipples that do not call for the same stress. Dirt bikes are an exception given that they are light-weight but require very strong wheels, so they normally have much heavier duty spokes and nipples under relatively higher stress.
          • The concept below is that a spoked wheel should be under adequate tension to hold up against the optimum tension the wheel is expected to handle.Too loose and intermittent stress each spoke the wheel goes around will certainly create work-hardening and ultimate failure of the spokes. Excessive stress places excessive strain on the hub and rim. Most of the time, an inexperienced wheel builder has a tendency to leave a wheel as well loose versus overtightening. If you are intending to truing wheels more than one wheel sometimes, it may deserve purchasing a torque spoke wrench to assist increase your wheelsmithing ability of identifying the proper stress.
          • The best tool to have when truing spoked dirt bike wheels is patience. It may take you a few hrs to finish your very first wheel. If you're really feeling depressed, walk out and you'll return back a clear head. As soon as you figure it out, you will find yourself wishing to lace up and truing  a fresh set of wheels for every old dirt bike you see.









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